CAROL'S BLOG (archive, 2017)

• Equations of Ellipses in Standard Form: Foci on the $x$-axis
• Getting an Ellipse by Stretching/Shrinking a Circle
• Two Useful Transforms: reflection about the line $\,y = x\,$ and counterclockwise rotation by $\,90^\circ$
• Equations of Ellipses in Standard Form: Foci on the $y$-axis
• Summary: Equations of Ellipses in Standard Form

• fabric-covered band-aids
• turning fabric scraps into yardage
• memory game (sure I've book-marked this before!)
• tiny flowers from circles (think I can use machine-basting, and use up buttons for the centers)

• the Earthbox reservoir holds 3 gallons of water, and 2 cubic feet of soil
• Quoting from the source above: "Each time you plant in the EarthBox, use 2 cups of a dry, granular fertilizer or plant food for vegetables (use 3 cups if the fertilizer is organic). The three numbers of the elements making up the fertilizer content (NPK) should be in the range of 5 to 15 (i.e.12-8-10, 10-10-10, 6-8-10) for non-organic fertilizers. After you have applied the fertilizer in the form of a strip, no additional fertilizer will be needed." 
• Quoting from the source above: "Is the EarthBox reusable? How do I replant my plants?
  Absolutely. Simply remove your old plants, the old fertilizer strip and some of the surrounding growing media. Decide what you are going to plant in your EarthBox and refer to the Planting Guide to know where the fertilizer and plants need to be placed. Top the EarthBox off with some fresh growing media, creating a mound. Mix in 1 cup of Dolomite to the growing media. Based on the Planting Guide, pour 2 cups of dry, granular fertilizer (3 cups if using an organic fertilizer) in the form of a 2-inch-wide strip, burying it 2"-4". Put a new mulch cover on your EarthBox and replant. You can use the same growing media up to 6 growing seasons, and the EarthBox for many years."
• planting from seed in an Earthbox

• planting vegetables from kitchen scraps : lettuce, mint and basil, green onions, celery, onion, garlic
• free online whiteboard: I used this to help a friend with some math problems; it's incredibly simple and works well

• University of Minnesota Extension
• Underwood Gardens (I think I'll try the chamomile/cinnamon/garlic spray remedies mentioned here.)
• Here's a garlic spray recipe: anti-fungal, anti-bacterial, and also an insect repellent.
• This article explains why you might want to add dish soap and/or vegetable oil to the garlic spray; it coats larvae or eggs and smothers them.

• If using a previously-used seed tray, clean and bleach-sterilize it first.
• Use brand-new peat pellets.
• Water from the bottom (don't sprinkle water on top). Don't over-water!
• When thinning seedlings, SNIP the undesired seedling, don't pull it out. (Pulling it out can damage the roots of nearby seedlings.)
• Air movement helps keep the fungi from getting established. If plants are outside, our Arizona breezes should help. Inside, use a low fan.

• Note: Make any desired borders and attach to the front before assembling/quilting.
• Note: make the backing a bit large; it will get trimmed before binding.
  Better safe than sorry!
• Mark centers on backing fabric and front.
  (Easiest way if there's no visual center: fold each in half, both horizontally and vertically.)
  Put a safety pin (NOT a common pin!) from front-to-back, through all layers, in center.
• Starting from center, smooth all layers and safety pin liberally. These safety pins will be removed as you quilt.
• Liberally pin the perimeter of the quilt with common (straight) pins. I prefer to sew over these pins, then remove them. I have broken one machine needle (in about a decade) doing this, but I usually don't have any trouble, since I sew quite slowly over the pins. It helps to have the pins in place in each section to get any needed even distribution of "gathering" of the front material.
• Use a WALKING FOOT (even feed foot) for all quilting!
• Sew the perimeter, removing pins as you go.
• Liberally pin the center line (short direction) of the quilt, smoothing as needed. Sew.
• Liberally pin the center line (long direction) of the quilt, smoothing as needed. Sew.
• Do all remaining rows/columns by going to center of each un-quilted section, pinning liberally, sewing.
• Note: ROLL the quilt bulk tightly so that it fits in the sewing machine.
• This is a great binding tutorial. I attach the binding to the back of the quilt and machine-stitch the front, so there's no hand sewing. For my Georgetown quilt, I used a 3.5" wide binding strip:
  • sew to the back with a 3/8" seam allowance (line up the edge of the even feed foot with edge of fabric)
  • stitch again, as close as possible to the first line of stitching (farther in—increases the seam allowance just a smidgeon);
    avoid corners by merging with original stitching about 1" from corners
  • press out
  • fold over to just cover stitching line, and sew

• very good basic introduction (2:18)
• much more thorough instruction; shows how to assemble (9:33)
• using it on something VERY thick, with a vice (3:01)
• replacing a buckle: great tips for use as a survival item for wilderness treks (33:22)